Military

Are you lost in MD because you don't know anything about sewing? Are you a skilled seamstress? Meet up here and help each other out.
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FoxFire
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2016 6:30 pm

Military

Post by FoxFire » Tue Dec 20, 2016 6:48 pm

How can I make similar pockets like this:

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/478648266619314828/

I can't seem to get that creasing :/

I'm also struggling with the collar:

Image

Image

Followed the "how to create collars" video but the back keeps riding up even when set to silk. Might be my back pattern?

Image

Any suggestions would be great. I'm a total noob at sewing and can barely dress myself :P

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LoriGriffiths
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Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2015 4:39 pm

Re: Military

Post by LoriGriffiths » Wed Dec 21, 2016 2:46 pm

The pockets in the image are pleated with a box pleat. You should be able to Google box pleat to understand how they are constructed.

On the collar, there are a few things you can do. First, make sure the length of the collar stand, where it attaches to the front and back, is the same length as the front and back neckline. Then make sure the collar stand length, where it attaches to the upper collar, is the same length as the upper collar.

The collar should be folding over at the top of the stand. To help with this, make sure the Sewing Line Type (Property Editor) is set to Turned where the upper collar is sewn to the stand.

Lastly, turn down the Particle Distance. When it is high, the chunky collar sometimes will not lay down.

This is a very common problem that I've encountered many times. Hope that helps.

FoxFire
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Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2016 6:30 pm

Re: Military

Post by FoxFire » Wed Dec 21, 2016 9:14 pm

Yep it helped! Thanks for telling me the pattern name had no idea how to google!

FoxFire
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2016 6:30 pm

Re: Military

Post by FoxFire » Sat Dec 24, 2016 1:50 am

Hey, hate to keep coming back here looking for help but what is going on in my pattern to cause this bunching up at the back?

Image

I can't seem to get rid of it no matter how much I change :/

Rosemaryr
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Re: Military

Post by Rosemaryr » Tue Dec 27, 2016 3:27 pm

Lori seems to be fairly busy with the holidays... I'll take a stab at it.
Essentially, there is too much cloth in that area, so you want to remove that excess. I would put in an (horizontal) internal dart, or split the back pattern at the waistline. (Especially if you want the lower back's hem to be level...)
If the mesh is meant to be used in another program, such seaming work will not show. Or, if you want to only use it in MD, you can cover it with a belt.

FoxFire
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Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2016 6:30 pm

Re: Military

Post by FoxFire » Wed Dec 28, 2016 3:09 am

after experimenting with a new pattern I will have to agree, although I think it was also a combination of the front doing something a little funky.

FoxFire
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2016 6:30 pm

Re: Military

Post by FoxFire » Wed Dec 28, 2016 7:10 am

Here is what I mean, I'm getting a lot of pull from the front. I'm not sure if it's the pose? I try to widen the front to give it more fabric but I also get the shirt being pulled in the front:

Image

and here is what happens if I make the shirt wider:

Image

I would have thought making the front bigger would mean that it because looser? This thing should feel more like a jacket than a shirt but I'm having difficulty just getting it to hang right :/

The goal I guess is to get something similar to this:
Image
but eh...

Rosemaryr
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Re: Military

Post by Rosemaryr » Wed Dec 28, 2016 3:16 pm

(The forum has been buggy about letting me post... we'll see if this one gets through...)
You are correct to a certain extent, that the pose will influence how the garment will hang: your avatar has a pretty well-arched back, with the chest pushed out and up. If you want to fit that pose, you will need garment patterns that compensate for that arching back. (There is a technical tailoring term for such a stance, but I can't think of it at the moment.)


If you look closely at the sample image, do you see that vertical line running down from the upper pocket to the lower one? That is a (semi-)concealed dart. And the odds are good, that there is one in the back as well (or fitting seams).

As for examples, here is a good place to start:
http://historyoffashiondesign.com/part- ... -uniforms/
About half-way down the page, there are some tunic jackets that look very similar to what you want. And they show how the different seams and darts are laid in.

FoxFire
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2016 6:30 pm

Re: Military

Post by FoxFire » Thu Dec 29, 2016 7:09 am

Thanks for the link it helped. A bit hard to read the patterns but I managed to make my coat feel more coat-like. My only other issue are the shoulders, they seem like they have some padding, anyway to get that easily in Marvelous Designer?


Edit: And I have also noticed that the forum is acting a bit buggy. Everything seems to go through though which is nice.

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